I t ‘s the cardiovascular system of Chicken. Konya, a neighborhood of a million souls, squatting slap in the center of Anatolia’s nuts plain, surrounded by unlock, limitless prairie. Turkey’s extremely culturally traditional area, Konya appears at first become a location of rigorous headscarves and you will foreboding beards, out of ostentatiously noticed pieties and taboo drinks. But Klikk her uncovering Konya is not difficult – to possess here, in the centre of your own dated town, within his tomb of turquoise ceramic tiles, was Jelaluddin Rumi.
Rumi is amongst the world’s very see poets. While in the their lifestyle, and because his passing in 1273, pilgrims attended to Konya. Now, Rumi’s tomb is Turkey’s 2nd most-went to website visitors appeal pursuing the Topkapi Palace within the Istanbul. Rumi is a mystical, a beneficial Sufi saint exactly who loved every religions, and you can whoever own faith is like. His supporters perform (nevertheless do) cure on their own during the trance and you can dance, either rotating instance passes all the time.
Discover a large, epic the brand new municipal auditorium in which this tender whirling people dancing are performed, and you can one amount of charming glossy-eyed mystics in carpet storage, cafes and you will gothic bazaars, every delighted to help you invite that a private zikhr
This type of spinning dervishes are in fact brand new symbol away from Turkey’s tourism procedures, and sip beverage in your Istanbul hotel lobby viewing some bad bloke during the a large beige felt hat whirling for their activities. Towards the real thing, even when, already been heree to help you Konya and also you started to Turkey’s soul. From inside the Rumi’s terminology:
“Anyone who you’re, come Even if you are An infidel, a pagan, or a great fireworshipper, already been Our very own brotherhood isn’t certainly one of anxiety Though you enjoys damaged Your vows regarding repentance a hundred moments, been.”
Every year as 1983, I have been upcoming to your a few billion-or-very visitors whom go to Konya a year. Most are Turkish, some Iranians (who allege Rumi as their individual, as he penned within words and was born in east Persia) and additionally result in the pilgrimage.
In place of to make Konya a stop towards a bus concert tour, I would suggest staying for most days, soaking up the feeling, dinner the Turkey’s top lamb, enjoying their finest Seljuk buildings and – maybe – losing crazy about Rumi. You can fly into the inexpensively out of Istanbul, from which there’s also a good scruffy, atmospheric train, or are available by-road. Konya is within effortless started to of cavern dwellers and you may carpet sellers off Cappadocia.
Rumi arrived here once the a great boy, whenever Konya had started a district for two,000 ages. It absolutely was situated of the Hittites, who were been successful by the Phrygians, then your Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the latest leaders out of Pergamon and also the Romans, who called the set Iconium. Saints Paul and you may Barnabus both preached right here, but of the 1071 the newest Seljuks, good Turcoman tribe, was in charge, in addition to their architectural legacy endures.
Its Karatay Medrese out-of 1251 is a masterpiece of ornate tiling and you will unified domes. It is now new Museum out-of Ceramic tiles and you will Ceramics, whose contents maintain the vibrancy and you can punch that they had when first fired. Close by, the fresh new Ince Minarali Medrese is now the fresh new Art gallery off Brick and you will Timber Sculpture, and is a lot less dry than just You will find caused it to be voice. These two buildings whet urge for food to discover the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, therefore the fantastic Sahip Ata mosque: in place of the majority of brand new Muslim business, for the Chicken you are motivated to head to mosques, whichever their religious preferences.
At the junction of old city and its unappealing the neighbour ‘s the Alaaddin mosque, the newest city’s vantage area, whoever beautiful black pulpit and you can sensitive and painful prayer-niche come from 1155 (the fresh new advanced is completed in 1221). The latest boulevard radiating from this point provides one Rumi’s tomb, where a whole lot more later. Rumi is recognized to Turks while the Mevlana (the new Sainted One), and after this Konya is during thrall to help you Mevlanamania.
As i basic emerged, Mevlana’s supporters, the Mevlevi, were a banned organization, tolerated just for its “folkloric dance” and you may whirlings. Meetings occurred privately, illegally.
I mentioned restaurants, also. Konya’s lamb-centric food is great. Etli ekmek was a long, narrow move-right up pizza bequeath having delicately spiced mince, and you will Konya kebab are a lamb shank, really reduced roasted and you may served for the a support from dough that have a sweet red-colored onion. Best is at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. No 5, +ninety 332 352 85 47), whoever soups and you will handmade yogurt is actually paradise-produced.
Ergo, incredibly provided, with of numerous glasses of sweet tannic tea inside you, help make your means to fix Rumi’s tomb. Your join the awestruck, new interested as well as the fervent. A strange twinkly white plays on the tombs out-of Rumi and you will his supporters. The wall space is actually padded with calligraphy, and ceilings are a good kaleidoscope away from remarkably done arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is included during the greatly padded cloth out of gold, and you may seems to shine white and you may peace and you will mercy.
Are all gone, to have let me reveal love
A few of your own other pilgrims have a tendency to read Korans, while others Rumi’s poetry. Really need photographs, while this is strictly taboo. You will find people who weep gently, and those who laugh aloud; people who reflect day long, and those who hurry owing to.
To try out on the side and you will insinuating alone into the understanding is the ney, good reed flute. It may sound such breathy heavens, it is really the sound away from flame, and this rises and falls inside us all. It is not some sullen religious moaning, however the voice of yearning, of communion, of one’s heart. You have they – it’s soul music, and it really sends you. Very started.
Turkish Air companies (020-7471 6666) flies so you can Konya thru Istanbul from Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and Manchester, from ?219 rtn inc fees. Istanbul to Konya of the rail will set you back throughout ?24 return, or about ?thirty-six go back from the coach. Resort Balikcilar provides bedroom or around ?70 (and now have serves cold drinks). Resort Dergah (+ninety 332 351 76 61) bed room up to ?20. Seats to see the fresh spinning dervishes was free of the latest travelers place of work, behind Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum on SeleneTour (+90 532 564 9192, ) arranges private spinning and you will zikhr regarding ?30pp.
